Hidden in a mountainside cleft, high above the town of Esentepe in North Cyprus is the remarkable Antiphonitis Church. Dating from the 12th century, and part of a larger monastic site, Antiphonitis Church was in use until 1965. As such the Church itself, although derelict, is well-preserved. An impressive tiled red dome, which caps the church, greets visitors as they wind down the steep descending approach road from the direction of the North Cyprus Herbarium. The dome is the oldest part of the Church, and on close inspection can be seen not to be perfectly circular, adding to the quaintness of the structure. To the front of the dome the structure drops down to the nave and semi-circular entrance porch, both of which are exquisitely tiled in the same style as the dome, but date to the 15th century. Adding drama to the Church is the gothic-styled loggia, with open arches offering spectacular views over the surrounding countryside.
Church interior
Inside Antiphonitis Church, the walls and ceilings reveal some of this ancient building’s secrets – a rare window onto the world of Cypriot Christian art. It was in churches such as these across the island during the Middle Ages that Cypriot Christian art forged its own unique style; a style that today can be seen in the 12th and 15th century frescoes that decorate the walls and ceilings of Antiphonitis Church.
The dome ceiling is eye-catching with a depiction of the Christ Pantocrator. On the south wall is a 15th century painting of the Last Judgement. The piece de resistance however is the 12th century frescoes in the southwest of the Church. These frescoes have sustained damage following illegal attempts to remove them in the past. The damage becomes obvious on closer inspection.
Getting to Antiphonitis Church
Situated near Esentepe in the Five Finger Mountains, Antiphonitis Church is accessed down a steep dirt track. It is accessible with care in a normal saloon car. However, if there has been heavy rainfall 4×4 North Cyprus car hire is recommended.